12. February 2016
The decision was not borne out of desperation, like in New York. Ivo Ebert, previously of Reinstoff, decided to put the dining room in the basement because of the cellar’s white vaulted ceiling — a good decision, but it takes some getting used to.
The evening starts with a glass of Champagne, followed shortly after by fresh-baked bread and house-made butter — a simple pleasure. Is it then perhaps a bit presumptuous to want to try all ten courses afterward? In any case, five of the dishes were truly memorable, for example a dish featuring razor-thin slices of raw mushrooms stacked on top of sauteed mushroom tops with walnut cream and fenugreek that continues to this day to stand out in memory.
Each course has a special character, and guests have to be open to new experiences. In any case, einsunternull will certainly spark discussion in the city and beyond. (emh)
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einsunternull, Hannoversche Straße 1, Mitte, Tel. 030 27 57 78 10, www.einsunternull.com
Lunch menu with three courses starting at € 29, Dinner menu with five courses starting at € 67